Tuesday, March 11, 2008

L'heure des bulletins par Suzy Menkès

Le New York Times a compilé l'avis de Suzy Menkès sur les défilés Automne-Hiver 08-09. Voici le bilan:

Nina Ricci: “romantic sweetness.”
Alexander McQueen: “lovely in its simplicity.”
John Galliano: “the Belle Epoque, with a hint of William Morris.”
Chloe: “twittering sweetness.”
Hermès: “a sophisticated vision of India, rather than a romantic cliché.”
Kenzo: “a delicate homage” to Sayoko Yamaguchi.
Elie Saab: “a modernist feeling to the collection. But the spirit did not last…”
Azzedine Alaïa: “there is only one master.”
Limi Feu: “a feisty spirit.”
Chanel: “the overall effect was slightly confused.”
Yves Saint Laurent: “a tough chic that is not for the faint-hearted.”
Sophia Kokosalaki: “a rather familiar exercise.”
Sonia Rykiel: “famous knits… [and] a kooky, Bohemian presence.”
Lanvin: “a fine, strong show that was both user-friendly and imaginative.”
Miu Miu: “no sly sexuality, but instead more fitted clothes.”
Chado Ralph Rucci: “tranquillity with an undercurrent.”
Louis Vuitton: “a new silhouette, topped with a stylized hat, that emphasized a general smartening up.”
Valentino: “a feminine, fresh and pretty collection.”
Comme des Garçons: “witty and unexpected.”
Giambattista Valli: “a pretty collection of dress-up clothes for the Learjet kids of the super rich.”
Loewe: “intriguing, with their faint perfume of 1960s Spain.”
Hussein Chalayan: “the evolution of Chalayan’s style, from complexity to coherence, made this an accessible show.”
Dries Van Noten: “densely rich but digestible show.”
Christian Lacroix: “one of his most focused ready-to-wear collections.”
Givenchy: “a clarity of vision that was dependent on his tailoring skills.”
Stella McCartney: “a collection that looks more like an offering for buyers to pick and choose, rather than the soul of what the designer stands for.”
Jean Paul Gaultier: “the skill and finesse of the designer was impressive.”
Ann Demeulemeester: “an artistic expression by an intelligent designer.”
Issey Miyake: “a collection more intriguing in its detail than its entirety.”
Karl Lagerfeld: “like the collection itself, nothing is quite clear.”
Emmanuel Ungaro: “respectful to a fault.”
Balenciaga: “austerity chic.”
Christian Dior: “facile — but it worked, mostly because of the fine craftsmanship.”
Gianfranco Ferré: “Gianfranco Ferré’s memory deserved a better homage.”
Balmain: “Christophe Decarnin put the sparkle back into Balmain.”
Rick Owens: “Rick Owens withdrew from the couture cool he had been cultivating and went back underground.”
Viktor & Rolf: “symbolic refusal overwhelmed the show and wiped out any of the none too strong creativity.”
Junya Watanabe: “the show was of living sculptures, in which classical drapery was given a modernist purpose.”
Yohji Yamamoto: “so delicately done that nothing… seemed out of synch with the designer’s aesthetic.”
Maison Martin Margiela: “a puzzle and seemed out of character.”
Undercover: “energetic, imaginative and seems to be growing with each season.”
Tao: “sweet as bird song, without missing the cool vibe that gives a fresh interpretation to fashion’s girlish dreams.”

et vous, vous avez flashé sur quoi?

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Sur Lanvin et Giambattista Valli.
Au fait, Suzy, l'Inde, c'est le thème de l'été de Hermès. Celui de l'hiver, c'est gipsy. béa

Anonymous said...

Sur Lanvin et Giambattista Valli.
Au fait, Suzy, l'Inde, c'est le thème de l'été de Hermès. Celui de l'hiver, c'est gipsy. béa

Anonymous said...

et dans les dents suzy pour Hermès :-)
Bonne analyse pourtant !

On a pas eu de grands flashs cette saison.