L'heure des bulletins par Suzy Menkès
Le New York Times a compilé l'avis de Suzy Menkès sur les défilés Automne-Hiver 08-09. Voici le bilan:
Nina Ricci: “romantic sweetness.”
Alexander McQueen: “lovely in its simplicity.”
John Galliano: “the Belle Epoque, with a hint of William Morris.”
Chloe: “twittering sweetness.”
Hermès: “a sophisticated vision of India, rather than a romantic cliché.”
Kenzo: “a delicate homage” to Sayoko Yamaguchi.
Elie Saab: “a modernist feeling to the collection. But the spirit did not last…”
Azzedine Alaïa: “there is only one master.”
Limi Feu: “a feisty spirit.”
Chanel: “the overall effect was slightly confused.”
Yves Saint Laurent: “a tough chic that is not for the faint-hearted.”
Sophia Kokosalaki: “a rather familiar exercise.”
Sonia Rykiel: “famous knits… [and] a kooky, Bohemian presence.”
Lanvin: “a fine, strong show that was both user-friendly and imaginative.”
Miu Miu: “no sly sexuality, but instead more fitted clothes.”
Chado Ralph Rucci: “tranquillity with an undercurrent.”
Louis Vuitton: “a new silhouette, topped with a stylized hat, that emphasized a general smartening up.”
Valentino: “a feminine, fresh and pretty collection.”
Comme des Garçons: “witty and unexpected.”
Giambattista Valli: “a pretty collection of dress-up clothes for the Learjet kids of the super rich.”
Loewe: “intriguing, with their faint perfume of 1960s Spain.”
Hussein Chalayan: “the evolution of Chalayan’s style, from complexity to coherence, made this an accessible show.”
Dries Van Noten: “densely rich but digestible show.”
Christian Lacroix: “one of his most focused ready-to-wear collections.”
Givenchy: “a clarity of vision that was dependent on his tailoring skills.”
Stella McCartney: “a collection that looks more like an offering for buyers to pick and choose, rather than the soul of what the designer stands for.”
Jean Paul Gaultier: “the skill and finesse of the designer was impressive.”
Ann Demeulemeester: “an artistic expression by an intelligent designer.”
Issey Miyake: “a collection more intriguing in its detail than its entirety.”
Karl Lagerfeld: “like the collection itself, nothing is quite clear.”
Emmanuel Ungaro: “respectful to a fault.”
Balenciaga: “austerity chic.”
Christian Dior: “facile — but it worked, mostly because of the fine craftsmanship.”
Gianfranco Ferré: “Gianfranco Ferré’s memory deserved a better homage.”
Balmain: “Christophe Decarnin put the sparkle back into Balmain.”
Rick Owens: “Rick Owens withdrew from the couture cool he had been cultivating and went back underground.”
Viktor & Rolf: “symbolic refusal overwhelmed the show and wiped out any of the none too strong creativity.”
Junya Watanabe: “the show was of living sculptures, in which classical drapery was given a modernist purpose.”
Yohji Yamamoto: “so delicately done that nothing… seemed out of synch with the designer’s aesthetic.”
Maison Martin Margiela: “a puzzle and seemed out of character.”
Undercover: “energetic, imaginative and seems to be growing with each season.”
Tao: “sweet as bird song, without missing the cool vibe that gives a fresh interpretation to fashion’s girlish dreams.”
et vous, vous avez flashé sur quoi?
